Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Desert Travel



Big Bend is one of the largest and least visited of America's national parks. Over 801,000 acres await your exploration and enjoyment. From an elevation of less than 2,000 feet along the Rio Grande to nearly 8,000 feet in the Chisos Mountains, Big Bend includes massive canyons, vast desert expanses, and the entire Chisos Mountain range. Here, you can explore one of the last remaining wild corners of the United States, and experience unmatched sights, sounds, and solitude.

In Big Bend National Park all roads end at the Rio Grande, the boundary between the United States and Mexico. But far more than two nations meets here. Three states come together at Big Bend: Texas in the United States and Coahuila and Chihuahua in Mexico. Many of the park's famous, expansive vistas mix scenes belonging to both nations.



Big Bend National Park also marks the northernmost range of many plants and animals, such as the Mexican long-nosed bat. Ranges of typically eastern and typically western species of plants and animals come together or overlap here. Many species are at the extreme limits of their ranges. Latin American species, many from the tropics, range this far north, while northern-nesting species often travel this far south in winter. Contrasting elevations create additional, varied micro-climates that further enhance the diversity of plant and animal life and the park's wealth of natural boundaries.

Big Bend is famous for its natural resources and spectacular geology. The park is home to more than 1200 species of plants (including approximately 60 cacti species), 11 species of amphibians, 56 species of reptiles, 40 species of fish, 75 species of mammals, 450 species of birds, and about 3600 species of insects. The park boasts more types of birds, bats, and cacti than any other national park in the United States.

The park is very large and remote. Remember that you will be at least 100 miles from a bank, hospital, pharmacy, or supermarket.

A minimum of two days is needed to see most of the park from the main roads. For hikers and explorers, allow a week to see the park. A high clearance or 4x4 vehicle will allow you to see even more of the park via the 150 miles of unimproved dirt roads.

Camping, birdwatching, wildlife viewing, and float trips are popular park activities. Commercial float trips on the Rio Grande are available through outfitters just outside the park.

Hiking is the best way to experience, enjoy, and appreciate Big Bend National Park. A permit is required for all overnight trips, and can be obtained up to 24 hours in advance of the trip in person only. It is advisable to plan an extended backpacking trip upon arrival in the park with a park ranger's assistance. Bear in mind how much distance you want to cover and how much time you have. Based on that information and current conditions, personnel at park visitor centers can assist you with trip planning.

Chihuahuan Desert
North America has four warm deserts: Great Basin, Mojave, Sonoran and Chihuahuan. The Chihuahuan extends deep into Mexico. Big Bend National Park lies in the northern third of the Chihuahuan Desert. This desert is bordered on three sides by mountains that block the rains. The fourth side abuts vast semiarid plains. The Chihuahuan Desert is a green and somewhat lush desert that receives most of its rainfall during the summer months when it is needed most. The chief indicator plant of the Chihuahuan Desert is lechuguilla, appearing as a clump of dagger blades protruding from the desert floor. The coarse, strong fibers of the lechuguilla are used in matting, ropes, bags and household items, which are, in a way, products of the Chihuahuan Desert. The lechuguilla illustrates an often misunderstood fact about the desert: the desert is a life zone. Life has adapted here to minimize expending its energy and to maximize getting or even hoarding water.

Gaila, Maggie and I have spent many enjoyable winter days in Big Bend National Park. The sweet smell of javelina right outside our tent in the Chicos Basin, sweaty hikes to the secret hot springs, fun and interesting ranger programs and always interesting people from all over the world.
If you enjoy day hiking this is a great park to visit. The Park Service has regularly scheduled interpretive hikes and can suggest hikes you can take on your own that will introduce you to the parks history, plants and animals.
We used to be able to visit the small mexican towns on the other side of the river and have a meal but homeland security has ruined that adventure.

Judge Roy Bean, "the law west of the Pecos, claimed dominion over Big Bend. He ruled with an iron fist. There are still occasional problems in the park area but being aware, following the rules and working with the Park Service will make your visit safe and enjoyable.

Big Bend National Park is a birdwatcher's paradise. It is home to about 450 species of birds, more than any other national park in the United States.

Halfway between Laredo and El Paso, the Rio Grande swings southward to form a huge bend that is also the southern boundary of America's finest desert preserve—Big Bend National Park. Established in 1944 to save 1,100 square miles of Chihuahuan Desert and mountain grandeur, it contains & wide variety of Southwestern scenery. From the three great canyons of the Rio Grande to the rolling slopes and jagged peaks of the Chisos Mountains, the birder is offered exciting discoveries all months of the year.

It is this diversity that creates the great variety of plant zones and makes it attractive to a wide variety of birds. Yet Big Bend is best known for its specialties that occur nowhere else in the United States except within the Chisos Mountains or just within the border country of Texas to Arizona. Such unique birds as the Mexican duck, the Lucifer hummingbird, the Mexican Jay, the black-capped and gray vireos, the Colima warbler, and the varied bunting do occur here at different times of the year.

Other breeding birds of the high Chisos canyons that are likely to be seen include the band-tailed pigeon, the white-throated swift, Rivoli's and blue-throated hummingbirds, the common flicker, the acorn woodpecker, the western flycatcher, the white-breasted nuthatch, and the canyon wren. Watch for the golden eagle among the many turkey vultures overhead.
Thirty-one species of snakes, twenty-two species of lizards, and four species of turtles have been found in Big Bend National Park.

Snakes—
The red racer, or western coachwhip, is the most often seen snake in the park, due to both its bright reddish-pink color and its habit of lying across roads, where it may stretch across an entire lane.

Bullsnakes are the largest snakes seen in the park, reaching over 6 feet in length and reaching several inches in diameter. Its heavy body, flat head, and patterning lead some people to mistake it for a rattlesnake. The bullsnake hisses and rattles its tail when threatened, and when it does this in dry leaves, the effect is very similar to that of a rattlesnake buzzing.

Hikers may find patchnose snakes in both the mountains and the desert. These slender snakes have a tan background color with two longitudinal dark brown stripes lining a central brown stripe. Look for the triangular "patchnose" scale on the snake's snout.

Four species of rattlesnakes are found in the park. The western diamondback is the most common of these. Black-tail rattlesnakes are common throughout the mountains and desert. They often have a green coloration, and the tail is solid black. Rock rattlesnakes rely upon protective coloration and seldom rattle unless really provoked. Mojave rattlesnakes are the least often encountered, which is perhaps a good thing because their venom is the most toxic, affecting the nervous system.
Snake bites are rare in Big Bend, yet many visitors are concerned about encountering snakes. To avoid being bitten by a snake, watch where you put your hands and feet, always carry a flashlight at night, and never disturb or pick up any snake. If you are bitten by a snake, remain calm, try to identify the snake that bit you, and get medical assistance as soon as possible. Keep in mind that physical exertion spreads the flow of venom through the body.

Lizards—
Most lizards move so swiftly that they're impossible to identify. You'll notice more if you listen for rustling, especially around areas with leaf litter. The most frequently seen lizard is the southwestern earless lizard, found throughout the desert. Though fast-moving, it is territorial and rarely goes far. It often perches on rocks and performs territorial and mating displays consisting of pushups.

Four species of whiptail lizards live in the park. Their long tails, which are up to 3 times the head-body length, give these swift lizards their name.

You may find spiny crevice lizards around any rocky area. Their scales are strongly keeled, which allows them to support themselves vertically in rock crevices. The ring of scales around their throat is often iridescent blue.

Alligator lizards prefer the wooded habitat of the Chisos Mountains. These heavy-bodied lizards appear slow-moving until threatened.

Two species of horned lizards may be found in the park, though neither is common. Most often seen is the round-tailed horned lizard; it has four even-sized horns on the back of its head, but none on the rest of its smooth grayish body. The Texas horned lizard, listed as threatened by Texas Parks & Wildlife Department, is rarely seen in the park.

El Gato
If Big Bend had a symbol, it might well be the mountain lion—the embodiment of freedom and wildness. Solitary and secretive, this mighty creature is the unquestioned lord of its natural world. As one of Big Bend's top predators, Felis concolor—"cat all of one color"—is vital in maintaining the park's biological diversity. In the delicate habitats of the Chihuahuan Desert, mountain lions help balance herbivores (animals that eat plants) and vegetation. Research shows that cats help keep deer and javelina within the limits of their food resources. Without lions, the complex network of life in Big Bend would certainly be changed.
Encountering a mountain lion, however, can lead to conflicts in maintaining the balance between natural processes and visitor enjoyment and safety. Since the 1950s, there have been more than 2000 sightings of mountain lions by visitors. Each year, over 150 lion sightings are reported by park visitors. While over 90 percent of these sightings were along park roadways, encounters along trails have also occurred. Since 1984, three lion and human encounters have resulted in attacks on people. In both cases, those attacked recovered from their injuries and the aggressive lions were killed, preventing them from playing out their important natural roles. The more we know about lions, and the less we seek an encounter, the better able we will be to make life easier for them and for us.